Compared to Europe, Australia is a veritable toddler when it comes to wine. However, several families have been on the land making a living – not necessarily in wine - for at least half of that time. In 2009 twelve families got together and formed a group called ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ (AFFW). They represent 16 wine regions and have many hundreds of years of experience between them. The group of families includes: Brown Brothers, Campbells, ‘d’Arenberg, De Bortoli’s, Henschke, Howard Park, Jim Barry, McWilliams, Tahbilk, Taylors, Tyrrells and Yalumba. These companies are all family-owned but they are not alone, there are many others that also have a considerable history behind them: Zilzie Wines, Westend Estate and Warburn Estate.
McWilliams Wines
McWilliams Wines is the oldest of these family dynasties and is one of the AFFW. Established in 1877 when Samuel McWilliam purchased his farm. It has been non-stop ever since, always with a McWilliam at the helm of the board of directors.
Yet Another AFFW company is De Bortoli’s. It was established by Vittorio and Giuseppina De Bortoli in 1928 who had emigrated here from Northern Italy.
During the 1980s, their son Deen and grandson Darren made a sweet white wine from botrytised Semillon which they named 'Noble One', this wine made everyone in the wine business sit up and take notice. They have since purchased property in Victoria’s Yarra and King Valleys. A further expansion into NSW saw the purchase of a winery and vineyard in the Hunter Valley in 2002.
Taylors Wines
With a shorter history, Taylors Wines is also a member of AFFW. Amazingly 40 years ago is long enough to be a fully fledged member.
“Our winery was established over 40 years ago - making it one of the oldest-established family wineries in the Clare Valley. My grandfather and father, however, were involved in the industry prior to this as Sydney hoteliers in the 1950s and 1960s,” said Miles Taylor the current managing director.
“During the 1950s our family formed a company called South Australian Wine Distributors which bottled and distributed wines for the Clare Valley co-operative. My father, Bill Taylor and his brother John were inspired by the great ‘old world’ winemakers of Europe and in particular, Château Mouton Rothschild. It was this long-held fascination for these wines that inspired our family’s foray into winemaking.
“In 1969, when my family purchased a holding of 178 hectares on the banks of the Wakefield River, we were well aware of the Clare Valley’s potential for fine winemaking.
Tahbilk
Tahbilk , also part of AFFW, can trace its roots back to 1860. Tahbilk is an aboriginal word meaning ‘many waterholes’ and the original owners planned to plant a million vines.
In 1875, a James Purbrick excavated the land prior to the building of the ‘new cellar’, 50 years later his third cousin Reginald Purbrick actually bought the property which remains in family hands.
Today Tahbilk is a modern winery run by Alister Purbrick, who returned to the family business in 1979 to take over from his grandfather Eric.
Westend Estate
Westend Estate was founded by Francesco and Elizabeth Calabria who migrated to Australia in 1927. Francesco always enjoyed wine with his meals like most Italians, however, when he arrived in Australia no table wine was being produced. So in 1945 they formally established a winery and produced wine for local Italian and European migrants in Griffith. Bill took over in 1974, however, a changing market and declining wine industry in the late 80’s saw Bill close the doors. Within a few years a major shift had occurred in the Australian wine market and the 90’s brought new interest and prosperity to the Industry. This inspired Bill who set reopening the winery.
Zilzie
Last but certainly not least is Zilzie, coming from nowhere 10 years ago, the brand has shot to the front through aggressive advertising. The Forbes family have been on the land for 100 years. An entrepreneurial family of sheep and wheat farmers who turned to vegetable growing and then grapes, their success has been truly astounding.
Seeing an industry that has gone boom and bust several times through its short history, these families have survived and not only that, they have grown. May they live long and prosper and in 50 years hopefully the will still be around and someone else will be writing about them.
Glynis Macri - Glynis Macri has been visiting Italy for the past 20 years absorbing all that the country has to offer in the way of food and wine ...
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